Camøno thru-hike Day 2 – Stages 3 and 4

144 km in 4 days

Stage 3 and most of stage 4 – Elmelunde (Keldborg B&B og Camp) to Møns Klint to Mandemarke Haver 28 km

Tuesday May 26, 2020

I departed early today; it was going to be another warm day and I wanted to walk the first 3 km as fast as I could because I had some more road walking to do. I must admit though, that it was a joy to be hiking in this area with the views that I had on this beautiful sunny morning, even though I had to cover some sealed roads again today. Leaving camp I passed several farms heading north. Looking east the high Møn region, which reaches up to a height of 140 metres, was visible. To the south-west I could see the church at Elmelunde. Elmelunde Church is famous for its frescos and it is located in the village of Elmelunde, which lies just 900 metres south from where I camped at Keldborg B&B og Camp. It stands high above the surroundings and I could see it for most of the morning. The church originally dates back to the 1080’s.

At Kobbelhus I turned down a gravel road that took me past a farm and then to a pump station. After I passed through Borre Sømose (swamp) on smaller tracks with long grass reaching out at me from both sides, I negotiated the trail to the coastline. The swamp has been drained and surrounded by dykes. I guess that’s the purpose for the pump station.

At the four kilometre mark I reached the beach at Ålebæk. What a beautiful section of this trail. It certainly made up for all the road walking that I had to get through this morning. I wanted to cover as much of the days distance as I could early, while the sun was still low in the sky. I knew that I would have some shade from the beach trees in the afternoon in Store Klinteskov (forest) when it was the hottest part of the day. I was trying to keep myself covered up and protected from the sun. I wore a thin wool blend hoody and the sleeves had some thumb holes in the ends so as to protect my hands. I had some sun cream but I hadn’t thought to pack some lip balm with a sun factor. I paid for that mistake later in my hike when my bottom lip became sunburnt.

The trail followed the coastline for one and half kilometres before taking me south towards Møns Klint. I stopped and savoured the moment several times. I never saw another individual along this stretch of the beach. Although, I did see a mountain biker up near the pump station. It was a perfect moment. I highly recommend not to miss out on this section of the trail. Seeing all this in the early hours of the morning and under the most perfect blue skies was most rewarding. You are not permitted to wild camp in the area although I noticed several sites where people had camped including their left-over fire pits ruining the beautiful landscape.

On leaving the coastline the trail then takes you south with a heading towards Møns Klint. I decided to take a quick break at Hyttemosegård to eat an oatmeal bar and to take my shoes off to air my feet out for a while. Along the trail on the island a lot of property owners have placed some benches on the outskirts of their land specifically for this purpose. I used a bench yesterday as well on that long 8 km road walk. I waved to the house owner and thanked them.

From Ålebæk beach I road walked 6 km through to Stubberup and then I arrived at Sømarkedyssen at Sømarke. Sømarkedyssen is a neolithic megalithic tomb dating back to approximately 3400 BC, the tomb consists of an octagonal chamber. A big boulder serves as a capstone, supported by seven load-bearing stones.

From Sømarkedyssen there is a further 2.5 km road walk to the start of the forest at Store Klinteskov. At Langbjerggård and 750 meters in I came by this waterhole which was full of frogs and birdlife. I was amazed at how much noise the frogs were making. A recording can be heard in my short film on YouTube.

I stopped for lunch and filled up on water at Camping Møns Klint. The toilet/shower block was open and I received permission to use it by the girl who manned the front desk in the reception area. They were setting up a take away shop next to the reception and it will be open for the summer. However, when I was there it was not possible to purchase anything. The summer season hadn’t commenced yet and there were not that many camping guests around either.

After my lunch break I continued on to the section that I was really looking forward to. I have hiked here before several times but one would never be tired of it. Møns Klint is one of Denmark’s most famous areas to visit. The pictures speak for themselves.

Approximately 2.5 km from Camping Møns Klint, where I stopped for lunch, I met my new friends again from yesterday that I first bumped into at the bridge going over to Nyord and later near the wind turbines close to Udby. They recognised me straight away. We began to talk about the place where they stayed the night before at Pension Elmehøj in Elmelunde. They had booked beforehand and they could let themselves in with a code that was sent to them. Being the only guests in the whole establishment they had it all to themselves. They said that it was nice with a bed, clean sheets and a shower. They had taken a bus this morning from Elmelunde to the GeoCenter at Møns Klint and then they had hiked up to this point. Their plan now was to camp at one of the small primitive campsites just north of where we were standing. There is one at Lille Ørnebjerg and another heading up towards Liselund. Then I found out that they had used my website as a guide and I told them that I was in fact Mr Brian Outdoors. What a small world! We talked some more and talked about some food or something. Thanks for chatting to me you guys and I hope that you were not disappointed with your Møn adventure. Thank you for reading my blog!

Møns Klint is a 6 km stretch of chalk cliffs along the eastern coast of Møn. Some of the cliffs fall a sheer 120 m to the Baltic Sea below. The highest cliff is Dronningestolen, which is 128 m above sea level. I followed the cliff trail for 3.5 km south to the GeoCenter Møns Klint where I filled up on water supplies for the last time today. I also filled my 2 liter Evernew folding water bottle so I had enough for tonight and in the morning. I was hoping that the cafe was open so that I could buy a cold drink and maybe something to eat, but I was out of luck. The summer season had not started yet I was told.

Leaving the GeoCenter Møns Klint I walked south for 1.8 km until I turned inland and passed through the little village called Busene. From Busene to Mandemarke Haver is 4 km and this is where I made camp for the night. The campsite is located right next to the Baltic Sea and is not to be mistaken for Busene have which lies 1 kilometre due east from here. There is no water available at this site and that is why I carried some from GeoCenter Møns Klint. Two shelters are located here and there is a primitive toilet. The shelters are almost always occupied year round and I have always slept in one of my own tents when camping at this location. I have pitched one of my shelters at the exact same spot on three separate occations. I have used my Tarptent Notch, my HMG Ultamid 2 and now my Zpacks Duplex for the first time.

I stripped off all my sweaty clothes and went for a quick skinny dip in the Baltic Sea to attempt to remove all the grime and dirt from today’s hike. Then I sat on the stoney beach naked to dry off in the warmth of the afternoon sun for a short while. I felt very lucky to be here especially with the generous warm weather that I was experiencing. Then I noticed a couple walking in my direction further down on the stoney beach. Time to get up and put some clothes on.

Dinner was one of my homemade dehydrated meals; a chicken curry with rice and vegetables. While I was preparing dinner the couple that had walked along the beach came down and asked me if they could borrow some matches so they could light the fire. They were sleeping in one of the shelters.

After dinner I witnessed a beautiful sunset in the west behind my camp. I then headed off to bed as I was wanting to be fairly much re-charged for the long day ahead in the morning. I was particularly looking forward to the coming stages as they were new territory for me. I would walk 44 km the next day!

I fell asleep listening to the sounds of the waves hitting the shoreline. There was next to no wind and the night temps were a comfortable 13℃. Life just couldn’t get any better. Don’t be fooled by the shorter distance walked today, the stretch along the cliffs is quite hilly so you should be in good shape to tackle this section.

You can view and download my map here on AllTrails

Total distance walked today is 28 km

end of day 2 … to be continued

4 Replies to “Camøno thru-hike Day 2 – Stages 3 and 4”

  1. Those photos from the chalk cliffs looks amazing, and I have to hike there someday. Too bad about the fire rings in the area.
    I’m not one to frown upon stealth camping, if you know how to LNT and care for the place, but building fire rings is the exact opposite off that.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Yes, that is my thoughts on the matter too. The site where I pitched my tent this time was also used to build a fire on when I came by in March this year; quite annoying. But luckily the Danish Nature Department have been by and repaired all the damage in the meantime and so I could camp there again.


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